NOTE: Clocks in France turn back one hour on October 29th at 3am for Daylight Savings.
Through October 28
France is gripped with rugby fever as the hosts of this year’s Rugby World Cup. Matches are in stadiums all over France, but you can watch for free from the giant screens at Le Village Rugby erected on the Place de la Concorde, with space for 15,000 fans. It’s open to everyone for free every Friday, Saturday and Sunday throughout the tournament from 2-11:30pm, and exceptionally on Thursdays September 14 and 21 (when France is playing). There will also be little events, photo stands, live DJs, meet & greet with players, and demonstrations at the Village.
Through October 28
The Mathgoth Gallery is hosting a retrospective exhibition to mark the 60th anniversary of the career of famed French street artist Gérard Zlotykamien, aka Zloty. In 1963, Gérard Zlotykamien participated with five other young artists in the Paris Biennale. The portraits of the dictators Salazar and Franco made by one of his fellow artists were censored by the Ministry of Culture for diplomatic reasons. Outraged by this decision, Zlotykamien decides to leave the established art world for good and starts painting where everyone could see it: in public spaces. Still going 60 years later, you can see his works for free at a special space near the MK2 Bibliothèque reserved just for the show, 1 rue Alphonse Boudard, 13th. Open Wednesday to Sunday, from 3-7pm (there’s usually a line on the weekends).
Through October 1
Escape to a little island on the edge of Paris for the 105th edition of the Foire de Chatou antique market. Formerly known as the Foire Nationale à la Brocante et aux Jambons (Ham and Flea Market), this popular twice-annual market has a mix of over 800 stands selling antiques and bric-a-brac, with an entire section dedicated to regional French foods, particularly pork in all its varieties. The Ile de Chatou, just north of Paris, also known as the Impressionists Island, is accessible via RER A from Charles-des-Gaulle-Etoile station in Paris, then either walk five minutes or take the free shuttle. Open 10am-7pm, entry €10 (free for kids under 15).
September 29 – October 1
Intrigued by the French language, or others? Check out LinguaFest 2023, hosted by Mundolingua (the museum of languages in the 6th arrondissement) at the lovely Halle des Blanc Manteaux, 48 Rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4th. The fair has 7 sections : 1. Publishers and bookshops : a large number of teaching methods, bilingual books, dictionaries, linguistics publications. 2. Immersion Travel : Now again possible, travel to discover and learn languages in situ. 3. Lecture and Events Space : A large collection, drawn partly from the monthly soirées at Mundolingua over the last 10 years including talks from some of the exhibitors, a games session, a multilingual reading of The Little Prince and more.4. Language Schools – for all ages. 5. Institutions : such as various museums, UNESCO (which has just launched its decade of indigenous languages, the new museum of the French language at Villers-Cotterêts. 6. Cultural Centers– roughly 30 languages will be represented, presenting their language and culture. 7. Various associations connected with languages, based in l’Ile-de-France, be they for the very young, still young or retired. There will also be spots for eating and workshops/activities, like: graphology, calligraphy, trying out languages, documentation, games. Open 10am to 7pm, entry €5.
October 5-9
Time for the annual Fête des Puces (Flea Market Festival) in the Parisian suburb of St-Ouen, the largest flea market in France. This year’s theme is Puces & Nature: Nature in the Decorative Arts, and for five days the stands of the 15 markets — including Vernaison, Dauphine, Paul Bert, Biron, Malassis, and Serpette — will be hosting live music, dances, and artistic performances while putting their finest wares on display. It’s free and open to everyone (although if you want to attend the Thursday opening night party from 7pm-midnight you’ll need to request your invitation here).
October 6-8
One of the biggest flower shows of the season, Les Journées des Plantes de Chantilly is taking place at the Château de Chantilly, just 30 minutes north of Paris by RER/TER. Over 200 exhibitors in a stunning setting with pretty flowers and plants, with a “fall color” theme. Buy your tickets in advance online to get the €16 entry fee (€18 at the door), or €14 for kids 7-17. The ticket also gives you access to the chateau and its current exhibits, and the horse stables.
October 11-15
Head up to Montmartre for the 90th annual Fête des Vendanges, the wine harvest festival (yes, there is an actual little vineyard in Montmartre, just behind the Musée Montmartre and across from the Lapin Agile Cabaret). This year’s theme is “The 18th Takes to the Games” (for this year’s rugby and the upcoming 2024 Olympics). Here’s the description: “The Fête des Vendanges de Montmartre offers a rich and ambitious program, revealing artistic talents, proposing more particularly this year unexpected encounters between art and sport, creating interaction between the public and the artists. Numerous events will take place in the public space and offer spectators of all ages artistic, cultural, sporting and participative proposals. The accessibility to all, and in particular to the people with disabilities, is one of the key components of this Fête des Vendanges de Montmartre to which the greatest number can take part… Faster, stronger, higher – together.” There will be grape stomping, food and wine tastings, a parade, live music, a dance party, and all kinds of fun throughout the “Butte“. Many events are free, some you have to reserve a spot, so get to the website or stop by the little Montmartre Tourism Office at 21 Place du Tertre (18th).
October 13-15
The last open artist ateliers event of the season, the Portes Ouvertes des Ateliers d’Artistes et de l’Artisanat d’Art in Montreuil (eastern suburb of Paris), takes place this weekend. First stop, for the map of participating artist and artisan studios and galleries, is the Centre Tignous d’Art Contemporain (116 rue de Paris, métro Robespierre), open Friday 6-8pm, and the weekend 11am-7pm. You’ll see colorful balloons around the town indicating the open ateliers as well. Free entry.
October 21-23
La Grande Halle de la Villette in the 19th is hosting two boozy events at once, the 7th annual Cocktail Street Festival with food by Le Food Market, and Whisky Live Paris, the largest event in the world dedicated to whisky and fine spirits. Both will have plenty of brands from all over the world, masterclasses, and tastings, of course. The Cocktail Street Festival is free entry, and Whisky Live is €66 for one day, €120 for both (tickets here).
October 23-November 4
The Jour des Morts (aka Dia de los Muertos, aka Day of the Dead, aka Toussaint in France) is officially November 1st, but there are events all over Paris in the week leading up to it, from celebratory altars and music concerts to parades and “catrinas” contests. See the list of official events in Paris here.
October 27-28
The 5th annual Nuit des Châteaux (Night of the Castles) takes place this evening in historic châteaux throughout France. Aside from the magic of being able to visit these castles all lit up at night, there are special tours, events, concerts and candlelit garden tours…check out the official website for the participating châteaux and their programs. The tickets vary depending on what is presented, but ar usually €10-15/adult. You’ll need a car, only one of the castles is in Paris.
October 28– November 1
Stuff yourself with all kinds of chocolately goodies at the annual Salon du Chocolat, at the Paris-Expo – Porte de Versailles (metro line 12), 10am-7pm. Entrance €16 (advance reservations €14, €7.20 for kids under 12), €40 for families. You can get advance tickets online or ask at your favorite chocolate shop if they have any extra invitations. Avoid the weekend unless you’re a masochist!
